Sinead Mulhern, a freelance writer who lives in Ecuador, decided to celebrate her 35th birthday the only way that made sense in 2026: by hiking to a mountaintop overlooking Peru, alone, with a list of books and a spa appointment. Because who needs a party when you can have existential dread with a view?

Mulhern, who has been living in Ecuador for eight years, skipped the traditional birthday bash - she's not much of a planner, and the thought of sit-down dinners she doesn't enjoy or logistically-heavy getaways with friends was apparently too much. Instead, she spent five days in a mountain valley in southern Ecuador, reading in hammocks, getting a massage and facial, eating delicious food, and hiking up a mountain. All by herself. Because nothing says 'mid-30s' like paying for your own spa day and talking to no one.

Her past birthdays were more raucous: chasing waterfalls through the Amazon for her 30th, dancing salsa until dawn in the Colombian countryside, and trekking to a volcano. But this year, she wanted something more subdued: time away, alone, in nature, and appreciating the quiet. She recommends everyone try it - at least once. Because if you're going to have a crisis, you might as well have it in a hammock.

The trip took her to Vilcabamba, a chill, bohemian town in Ecuador's south, where balmy afternoons give way to heavy rain and rainbows stretch across the valley. She hiked past fuchsia flowers and hummingbirds, climbing toward a peak marked by a cross, wondering what the second half of her 30s would hold. Her wish list was long: more travel, more creative work, writing, purpose-driven projects, her parents aging slowly and happily, friends who opted for parenthood not drifting too far, and the world stabilizing. Because that's not asking for much.

When she reached the top, orange butterflies floated above the slopes, and she stared at rows of crinkly mountain ridges stretching for miles - and recognized she was looking at Peru. She left Toronto to follow a gut feeling, and at 35, she's settled in Ecuador, writing, reading, studying, and living an active lifestyle. She also refuses to miss any of the country's iconic fireworks and thrives amid the bold energy this part of the world is famous for.

The transition from young to youngish feels strange, she admits. There's so much she wants to pack into her life, and birthdays feel like reminders that time is moving on for both her and those she loves. Still, to have the lifestyle and independence to take a solo birthday trip - and the discernment to know when it's time to take a time out - is no small feat. Indeed, it's a feat that requires a lot of privilege, a childfree lifestyle, and a healthy dose of 'I do what I want.' But hey, if you can swing it, why not?