In news that will surprise absolutely no one who has ever read an ingredient list and needed a chemistry degree to decipher it, a new peer-reviewed study has found that common personal care products are awash in unlabeled toxic chemicals. Researchers tested more than 110 items - from shampoo to baby lotion - and found evidence of unlabeled toxic chemicals in about 85% of them.
Many products contained multiple ingredients known to be carcinogens or health hazards, and even 26% of products labeled "eco," "green," or "natural" contained at least one dangerous compound. The products averaged more than three times as many chemicals as were listed on labels. That's like ordering a salad and getting a side of industrial solvent - without the courtesy of a menu.
It's unclear whether the products are intentionally adulterated or unintentionally contaminated. Either way, the findings raise further questions about the safety of everyday goods already under scrutiny for their health risks. The authors say the study highlights the need for stricter oversight, including mandatory testing. Because apparently, voluntary honesty isn't working out so well.
Jenna Hua, a lead author with Million Marker, a San Francisco-based company that offers at-home testing for exposure to toxic chemicals, said researchers knew they would find some unlabeled chemicals, but were still "shocked" by the findings. "I spend my money, and I want to get a good product - why am I being lied to?" Hua asked. A fair question, and one that millions of consumers might now be asking their shampoo bottles.
Among the chemicals detected were hormone disruptors and carcinogens such as phthalates, parabens, PFAS, and formaldehyde. Many of the same chemicals are sometimes intentionally added to personal care products, and are linked to cancer, neurological disease, reproductive harm, and damage to developing children, among other issues. Personal care product chemicals can be absorbed into the body, studies in recent decades have found. Yes, your skin is a sponge, and it's soaking up more than just moisturizer.
The 113 items tested were bought at major retailers, such as Target and Amazon. They include baby products, moisturizers, soaps, shampoos, toothpaste, feminine hygiene products, body washes, cleaning products, and other everyday goods. So basically, the entire bathroom cabinet is suspect.
Some ingredients may be added illegally, form due to an unintended chemical reaction among ingredients, or come from plastic packaging that often leaches compounds into the products, the authors wrote. The most widespread undisclosed toxicants fall under the umbrella term "fragrance" or "parfum" on products' ingredient lists. "Fragrance" can include any of 1,200 hazardous chemicals, and the law does not require companies to be more specific. Because why would you want to know what's actually in your lotion? That would just be inconvenient.
The situation is complicated for some small businesses that genuinely try to produce clean products. Some unwittingly buy contaminated raw materials, or are lied to by suppliers. Hua said Million Marker talked with some such companies that want to clean up their products, but are also fearful of predatory lawsuits over the contamination. Such scenarios could be avoided with stronger laws that help small well-intended producers avoid pitfalls and level the playing field.
"There needs to be some regulations and a testing component to ensure it's safe," Hua said. Million Marker is actively fundraising to do more testing. Because clearly, we need more data to prove what we already suspected: the system is broken.
Researchers used a non-targeted chemical analysis, which looks for evidence of thousands of substances, rather than a limited list of predetermined compounds. The analysis netted 303 chemicals that the authors felt confident were present, though the true number could be higher. Those were cross-referenced with a database of hazardous chemicals from the Environmental Protection Agency. Of the 26% of products that contained substances that contradicted marketing claims, synthetic chemicals were in those that claimed to be "100% natural"; phthalates were in goods labeled "phthalate-free"; and known allergens were in products marketed as "hypoallergenic." So much for labels.
"It's very hard for the individual consumer to know what's in the products, even if they are super-conscientious and reading the labels," said Kristen Knox, a research scientist with the Silent Spring public health non-profit, which has also tested personal care products for toxic chemicals but was not involved with this research. "Consumers don't have access to a lab." Indeed, most of us don't have a mass spectrometer sitting next to the toothbrush holder.
Knox said the findings and challenge for consumers highlighted a fundamental flaw in the regulatory system. "The US approach to chemical regulation is to assume everything is safe unless there is evidence of harm, instead of testing beforehand to ensure it's safe," she said. Previous Silent Spring research estimated that listed ingredients in personal care products released 5,000 tons of volatile organic compounds into US homes each year, and it has found many of the products marketed toward women of color. In 2022, a public health group found benzene, a highly carcinogenic chemical, in 27% of 663 products it tested, including some at life-threatening levels. That triggered major recalls by Procter & Gamble, Bayer, CVS, and others for brands such as Old Spice and Pantene.
There is no foolproof way to avoid undisclosed ingredients, but some simple steps can reduce exposures. Avoiding anything that includes "fragrance" or "parfum" is a good place to start. Products that use less plastic packaging have a lower risk of being contaminated with toxic plasticizers, such as BPA or phthalates. Choosing products with fewer ingredients and verifiably natural ingredients reduces the risk of issues such as unintended chemical reactions, but, as the study shows, it does not eliminate it.
A good resource is the Environmental Working Group's Skin Deep database, which rates ingredient lists for thousands of products, though it does not cover unlabeled ingredients. However, it can help make educated decisions. Hua said reducing the amount of personal care products and avoiding the worst, such as nail products, are easy protective steps consumers can take. So, maybe go au naturel - at least for your beauty routine - and hope your deodorant isn't plotting against you.